If Pangong Is a Dream, Tso Moriri Is Ecstacy

Elated after the rafting on the Indus, sad to leave Leh, but with vibrant anticipation of what lies ahead, we set out for further journey travel through the incredible landscape. Dry. Arid. Cold. And no habitation for miles and miles. Tso Moriri was the destination for the day. That meant getting back to Leh from the Sangam (Indus–Zanskar) and covering another 205 km.

The drive was pretty hard through mostly non-existent roads. Passing some remote villages, we reached the Mahe check post, here there was security check and verification of permits. Beyond the check post, it was once again trusting our drivers and enjoying. Throughout our Ladakh journey, one thing that was constant apart from the stunning landscape was complete faith in our drivers. At times, indication of the road was only the marks left by the vehicles went before.

At around 10 in the night, Tso Moriri camp welcomed us with temperature close to 2 degree Celsius. No power supply at the camp and it is a temporary setup for the season. The tents were comfortable but we had to put on layers of clothing to fight the cold. After hot soup, rotis and subzi, we crashed under thick blankets.

At 4,595 m, Tso Moriri (Lake Moriri) is one of the high-altitude lakes in the Himalayan region, sharing the Changthang plateau with Pangong Tso. Being landlocked, the water has turned brackish over the years. The lake is fed by springs and melt snow form the glaciers. Where the springs enter the lake are marshy and this wetland is rich in fauna. It is now a protected area called the Tso Moriri Wetland Conservation Reserve. A large variety of birds are found here, including the endangered black-necked cranes. We did spot some of them.

If Pangong was a dream, Tsomoriri was ecstasy. The magnificent mountain ranges in varying hues; the vast expanse of water that appears blue closer to you but changes colour at a distance; blue sky; white clouds! Lying down on the bank and drinking in the landscape was all we could do!

Much has been written and spoken about the ‘energy’ in the mighty Himalayas. To experience it is altogether a different sensation. It makes you giddy with joy; but offers amazing clarity to the mind. No wonder our sages chose this place to find salvation!